Las Vegas

miles of neon tubing bathe the Gulch in perpetual daylight

The blocks around the intersection of Fremont and Main Streets in downtown Las Vegas are known as Glitter Gulch.

The first neon sign in the city went up here in 1929; now millions of lightbulbs and miles of neon tubing bathe the Gulch in perpetual daylight. This is where you’ll find Vegas Vic and his pal Sassy Sal - two of the best-known neon icons in the country. Some of the city’s most famous casinos are in the Gulch, including the Golden Nugget and the Gold Spike, as are most of its strip clubs. Aside from slowly cruising down Fremont Street and basking in the multicolored glow, there’s little to do apart from gamble, drink or watch naked people slither around poles. Shopping consists mainly of souvenirs.

The remains of Old Las Vegas Mormon Fort State Historic Park may pale in comparison to nearby Glitter Gulch, but this is where it all started. Beginning in the 1850s, this adobe quadrangle provided refuge for travelers along the Mormon Trail between Salt Lake City, Utah, and San Bernardino, in southern California. Some of the original walls are still standing, and displays of artifacts and photographs illustrate mid-19th century life on the frontier. There’s an ongoing archaeological dig outside. The fort is a mile north of downtown.

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